Stocking Up - Part Four
|
|
Return to the
Main Menu
|
| |
| |
|
Part 1 2 3 4
|
|
|
|
The simple truth is that
the flavor of many of the best
dishes and sauce we prepare
results largely from the stock
used in its cooking and flavoring
and nothing is as good as a
home made stock.
The three major uses of stocks
are:
- as base for gravy, sauces
and soups
- as base for stews, beans
and braises
- as a cooking medium
for vegetables, rice, grains
and casserole dishes.
So highly do
the French value stocks that
they are called fonds de
cuisine, which means literally
the foundation and working capital
of the kitchen. Here are the
definitions of terms I like
to use:
|
Broth
|
|
Broth
means the liquid resulting from
cooking vegetables, meat or
fish with other seasoning ingredients
in water. Gelatin-rich bones
may
or may
not
be used
in a
broth-pot,
but
even
if they
are
included
as an
ingredient,
it's
always
to much
less
degree
than
in a
stock.
A refrigerated
broth
remains
liquid
and
flowable.
But
that's
not
to say
a broth
is totally
gelatin-free,
as even
in a
short
cooking
period
the
simmered
meat
protein
itself
will
still
leach
some
gelatin;
a broth
just
contains
less
gelatin
than
does
a stock. Broth
has
richer,
meatier
flavor
than
stock,
and
it is
seasoned
with
salt.
A broth
may
be served
on it's
own. See
More...
|
Stock
|
|
Stock
is intended as a flavorful but
neutral
base
to which
other
flavorings
will
be added,
it is
made
primarily
with
bones
rather
than
meat,
but
still
contains
vegetables
and
aromatic
ingredients
like
spices
and
herbs,
but
not
salt.
Making
stock
is taking
just
some
meat
and
bones,
vegetables,
herbs,
and
spices
and
cooked
in water
until
their
flavors
and nourishing
elements
have
been
extracted.W
hen
a true
stock
is chilled,
it congeals
because
of the
gelatin.
Brown
stock is make by browning meat
and/or bones before they're
cooked in water. Most
soups begin with a stock of
some kind, and many sauces are
based on a reduced stock (i.e.
reducing means boiling the stock
down to concentrate the flavor).
A stock
is never
served
on it's
own,
a broth
may
be.
|
Bouillon
|
|
Bouillon
is the French word for stock.
Period. Same thing, different
word
|
Consommé
|
|
Consommé
is another French word which
means bouillon that has been
clarified. Consommé is clarified
to remove all the minute particles
which cloud or float in the
liquid. The process uses egg
whites, which are beaten into
the warm bouillon, brought to
a simmer, and delicately strained.
As a result the liquid becomes
bright and beautiful without
loosing any flavor. Consommé
may be served as a soup or used
as a base in other recipes.
Double consommé means
that the regular (or single)
consommé has been reduced by
half its volume to double the
intensity of the flavor. Adding
just a little unflavored gelatin
and perhaps some Port (or other
spirits) makes a jellied consommé.
|
Aspic
|
|
Aspic
is the same as jellied consommé,
except that more gelatin is
added.
|
Soup
|
|
Soup
means any variation or combination
of meat, fish or vegetables,
cooked in water or in any other
liquid, and intended to be eaten.
It may be thin (like consommé),
thick (like gumbo), smooth (like
bisque), or chunky (like chowder
or bouillabaisse). Most
soups are served hot, but some
(like vichyssoise and fruit
soups) are served cold.
|
Store Broth
|
|
Canned soup and broth, are heavily salted, and packaged bouillon is
even saltier. Canned bouillon
and canned broth can be improved
significantly by removing much
of the excess salt. Start by
simmering the broth with
diced potatoes, and the discard
the potatoes. An excellent
alternative to homemade stock
is a product called "Better
Than Bouillon", which
is sold in an 8-oz. jar.
|
|
|
- 2-1/2 lb. of beef marrow
bones
- 1-2 T. oil
- 1 lb meat or meat scraps
- 2 medium carrots, coarsely
chopped
- 2 large onions, coarsely
chopped
- celery leaves from 1
or 2 stalks
Seasoning Sachet
- 3-4 Parsley stems
- ˝ teaspoon Thyme leaves,
dried
- 1 Bay leaf
- ˝ teaspoon Peppercorns,
whole
- 3 or 4 Garlic cloves,
crushed
- A pinch each of dried
Sage, rosemary, thyme,and
marjoram
Tie the bundle securely in
cheesecloth and tie with twine.
Place a layer of onions and
carrots on a greased baking
pan and arrange the bones
on top. Bake in a 450°F oven for about 45 minutes, or until the bones are browned
(the veggies may char, but don't
discard them, that will add
even richer flavor). Scrape
up all the residue left on the
pan and deglaze with water and
add to the pot. Heat oil lace
pressure cooker over high heat
and brown the meat in batches.
Place the browned bones and
vegetables in the pressure cooker
and cover with water by 2 inches.
Bring to a boil. Skim off the
frothy scum. Add the remaining
ingredients. Lock the lid in
place. Bring to 15psi
over high heat. Reduce
the heat to maintain that pressure.
Cook 45 minutes and remove
from heat. Use the natural release
method. Open the cooker once
the pressure has dropped. Carefully
strain the stock through a big
strainer into a bowl. Let cool
for a few minutes and then refrigerate
until the fat can be lifted
off the top of the broth. Store
tightly in a covered container.
It will keep in the refrigerator
up to 3 days or freeze up to
4 months.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|