Stocking Up - Part Three
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For chicken, beef, veal,
and game stock, or 1 lbs of bones
and 1 lb of
vegetables is required to make about
2 quarts of stock.
For fish/shellfish stock
2lbs of fish heads, scraps and
bones or shells to
2 quarts of water and 1 lb.
of vegetables.
For vegetable stock there
are no exact ratios since vegetables
do not all have the same intensity
of flavor. About 1 pound of
mixed vegetables is required to properly
flavor 1 quart of water.
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If
its convenient,
do your stock making
over a two day time
span. That way there's
no hurry, and you
can spread each
of the steps out
as you have the
time. It also allows
plenty of time for
the stock to be
chilled overnight
or for several hours
to make it easier
to remove the top
layer of fat. When you have enough ingredients
on hand to make
stock, begin with the meat and bones. If you are making a
brown stock, start by roasting the bones in the oven until they brown.
You can skip this step, if pressed
for time, but
the stock will loose a great deal of taste
and aroma. Whatever method you
choose, add the
bones and all the vegetables
to the pressure
cooker and 1 quart cold water
for every pound
of ingredients used.
You may also add
some wine or beer
as part of the liquid. Slowly
bring to a simmer. There will be insoluble proteins and albumen that will
rise to the top, skim this off with a ladle and discard. This is called scumming,
or depoulliage in French. Now
add the seasonings (except salt)
and vegetables and begin cooking
for the recommended
time to extract flavors and nutrients from the ingredients.
Now you can
take this stock and make soup
out of it or reduce it by boiling
it and thus evaporating the
water and intensifying the flavors.
After pressure cooking,
without a lid, simmer
for an extended
period of time until the water is
evaporated. What is left are nutrients
and flavor compounds that will
intensify and usually thicken
naturally.
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Strain your stock and discard the solid matter
which is now tasteless because
all the good stuff is in
the stock. There are two methods for
degreasing a stock. The simplest,
which is ideal for making stock
in advance, is to place it
in the refrigerator until the
fat has hardened on the surface
and can be scraped off. The
other method, useful when you
want to use the stock immediately,
is to let the stock settle for
five minutes and then to remove
as much of the fat as possible
from the surface with a spoon
or ladle, or use a fat separator
cup. Afterwards draw strips
of paper toweling over the top
of the stock to blot up the
last globules or fat. You may discard the fat, feed it to the`dog,
or better yet, freeze it to
use for making a roux
or gravy.
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If your stock resembles loosely
congealed eggs whites, you have
stock that you can feel good
about. The gelatin and protein
in the bones and meat scraps
causes the stock to congeal.
This type of stock is the reason
why chicken soup is prescribed
for people who are sick. It's
powerfully healthy food that
is easily digested. If your
stock is firmer than egg white
and resembles Jello, you have
the really good stuff. It jiggles
and wiggles, and keeps its shape.
You have reaped the rewards
of a labor of love, and you
can be sure that anything you
create with it will be full
of flavor and nutrition.
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You now have a defatted stock
that should be full of flavor
although not seasoned as of
yet and slightly gelatinous
depending on the quality of
the bones used. Taste
it for strength. If the flavor
is too weak, boil it down (after
stock has been degreased it
may be boiled with no ill effects)
to evaporate some of the water
content and to concentrate
the flavors. Cool and refrigerate the stock for use within
a day or two.. Keep small containers or
freezer. Another handy tip is to freeze stock in ice cube
trays, then transfer the cubes to a plastic freezer bag. That way you have
perfectly measured, small amounts of stock for cooking. You can portion
the stock into zipper freezer
bags by the quart or by the
cup. Get all the
air out of the bags before you
freeze them, and then they are
ready at a moment's notice. You can use frozen stock
for all kinds of sauces
or to that call for bouillon cubes
or canned broths.
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