Stocking Up - Part Two

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Stock Ingredients

Vegetable Mixes or Mirepoix

Mirepoix (meer-pwah), is a French word that describes the aromatic vegetables used to add flavoring and aroma to stock. This is usually a combination of chopped vegetables, customarily onion, carrot, and celery are most often used. The vegetables, except the onions, do not have to be peeled. The basic ratio of ingredients is two parts onion, one part carrot, and one part celery, by weight. The vegetables should be cut into a size that will allow for good flavoring extraction. Stocks that will cook longer may use a larger cut vegetables. Fish broth should have a the vegetables cut small since the cooking time is shorter. Because these vegetables are only used to add flavor and aroma they are usually discarded when the stock is finished.

Other vegetables ingredients may be added such as leeks, which can be used in place of all or part of the onion. Other root vegetables, such as parsnips, rutabagas and turnips may be used in addition to, or in place of carrots. Making stock is a great way to clean out the refrigerator, but don't limit your stock making ingredients to fresh or whole vegetables. Start saving peels, trimmings and other leftover vegetables as you cook, all those unattractive peelings and parings will impart a lovely flavor to your next stock. The vegetables, except the onions, do not have to be peeled. Wash the vegetable pieces and allow to drain and then place them in freezer bags until you get enough to make up a big pot of stock.

You can use all kinds of vegetables for stock making. The flavor will depend on the mix you use. Strong vegetables like cabbages, asparagus, broccoli, greens, turnips, tomatoes and cauliflower can overpower the flavor of stock. Unless you want a stronger flavor keep those vegetables stored separately and add them sparingly. Some excellent vegetables, and their trimmings or peelings, are onions, garlic, sweet potatoes, squash, carrots, celery, mushrooms, peas, corn and corn cobs, turnips, leeks, cilantro and parsley stems, green beans, beets, bell peppers, scallions, green onions, shallots, parsnips, rutabagas, etc., etc.

You can also add small amounts of fruit or fruit scraps to your vegetable stock ingredient mix. Apples, pears, plums and pineapple work well.

Poultry

If you buy chicken or turkey parts to make stock, get the most inexpensive parts, such as backs, wings and necks. If buying whole chickens, cut them up and save those parts. Save the skin and bones that are leftover when you de-bone chicken. The bones can be cut with a heavy knife or cleaver. Save the chicken or turkey carcass. If space is at a premium, wrap the carcass in a clean kitchen towel and place it on a solid surface. Use a hammer, a mallet or a heavy skillet to flattened the bones into a more manageable shape. Divide up the remains and place in freezer bags until ready to use.

If you want a darker, richer stock, place a layer of onions and carrots on a greased baking pan and arrange the poultry bones on top. Bake in a 450°F oven for about 30 minutes, or until the bones are browned (the veggie may char, but don't discard them, that will add even richer flavor) before adding them to your stock pot. Scrape up all the residue left on the pan and add it to the stock.

Meat

The most luxurious stocks are made from bones and meat. For beef, pork, game or lamb, the meat is browned in a hot oven to form compounds that give flavor and color--the result of a fusion of amino acids with sugars, called the Maillard reaction. Bacon and ham or other smoked meats and bones may be used as a stock to flavor many bean recipes. Since you will want most meat stocks to be dark and rich, I recommend browning the meat in a hot pan and oven roasting the bones first.

Bones

Brown stocks achieve their deep rich color and aroma when bones and meat are browned during preliminary roasting process. Bones contribute flavor and gelatin, which will give the finished stock consistency. The bones may be used fresh or frozen. If you have bones from a roast, ribs of steaks, go ahead and use those, and isn't it nice to get something for nothing? You don't have to re-roast them unless they are quite pale. Thick bones should be cut into 3-inch lengths for quicker and more thorough extraction of flavor, gelatin, arrow and nutritive value. This will add to the surface area of each bone and thus give more color and flavor to the finished stock. Stock is the richness derived from the gelatin (essentially concentrated protein) released by the bones and cartilage, and to a lesser extent by tendons, skin, and other tissue.

What Kind of Bones?

In addition to leftover bones, beef and veal soup bones may be purchased pre-cut, look for oxtails, neck bones and shanks as good choices for stock making. Marrow bones, large round bones with tissue in the center, are commonly use for stock. One or two marrow bones, sawed in half-inch pieces will provide a hearty beef flavor. Bone marrow is a source of protein and high in monounsaturated fats. These fats are known to decrease LDL cholesterol levels, a good reason to include them in you stock. Calves' feet is another and good type of bone as it contains a great deal of natural gelatin. Veal bones produce a more gelatinous stock than beef. Brown stock can also be made very successfully from a combination of different bones such as any type of game bird or animal, chicken, beef, pork, or duck.

Roasting

Place a layer of onions and carrots on a greased heavy roasting pan and rub the bones with olive oil and place them on top 1 layer thick. The oil will get hotter than the air of the oven, and will cause the bones to brown better. Bake in a 450°F oven for about forty minutes, or until the bones are browned. The veggies may char, but don't discard them, by charring the food, starches and proteins "caramelized" or turned into sugars. The resulting flavors were not only sweeter, but more complex and interesting. The browner color is also generally considered more appetizing. that will add even richer flavor. The bones should be nicely browned but not burned. To assure even browning, stir and turn the bones often. Too little browning and the stock will not be colored or flavored sufficiently, but burned bones will cause the stock to taste bitter. After the bones are properly roasted drop them into the pressure cooker along with the roasted vegetables and any grease in the pan.

Deglazing

Place the roasting pan on the stove, use 2 burners if necessary, and add 2 cups of cold water or a combination or water and wine. Over medium-high heat boil briefly, scraping the bottom of the roasting pan with flat edged spatula as the water boils. This will loosen any bits of browned juices that are stuck to the pan. These little browned bits are packed with flavor as well as color. Once the bottom of the pan is "cleaned" of these little browned bits, taste the water. If it is slightly bitter, do not use it as it will turn the finished stock very bitter. If it is not bitter, simply add it to the bones. The deglazing step also makes clean-up easier.

Seafood and Fish

Seafood stock use any inexpensive white fish. You can also save up fish scraps like the discarded heads, tails, bones and trimmings. Shellfish, such as crab, shrimp and lobster, including their shells, are used seafood stocks. Large fish bones or shells can be cut with a heavy knife or cleaver. If you are saving fish scraps freeze them separate from other ingredients. Fish stock is used for any kind of fish or seafood dish, such as soups, stews, chowder, ciopino, jambalaya and many Creole and Cajun recipes.

Liquids

Water is the most frequently used liquid for making stock. Wine or beer may also be used for part of the liquid. The liquid should be cold when combined with the bones and vegetables. The ratio of liquid to flavoring ingredient is important and should be followed for the best results. You may want to add 2 tablespoons tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce, if those ingredients appeal to you.

Herbs and Seasonings

Stocks should include herbs and spices to enhance flavors. The collection of herbs and seasonings are, tied into a small bundle with cheesecloth and tied with a small piece of string. This is then placed in the stock while cooking and removed and disregarded after stock is done cooking. Salt is not added to stock, wait until you add it to a recipe before adjusting the salt to taste. For more about which spice to use see the Spice and Herb Usage Chart.

Seasoning Sachet

Standard Bouquet Garni

Sufficient to season approximately 1 gallon of stock

3-4 Parsley stems
½ teaspoon Thyme leaves, dried
1 Bay leaf
½ teaspoon Peppercorns, whole
3 or 4 Garlic cloves, crushed
Sage, rosemary, or fresh herbs may also be used to create different flavors

Tie the bundle securely in cheesecloth and tie with twine.

Sufficient to season approximately 1 gallon of stock

1 Celery stalk, halved crosswise.
3 or 4 Parsley stems
1 Thyme sprig, fresh
1 Bay leaf
2 or 3 Leek leaves 1
Sandwich herbs between celery pieces and fold leek leaves around the herbs and celery.

Tie the bundle securely in cheesecloth and tie with twine.

 

 

 

 

 

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