Stocking Up - Part Two
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Mirepoix (meer-pwah), is a French word that describes
the aromatic vegetables used
to add flavoring and aroma to
stock. This is usually a combination
of chopped vegetables,
customarily onion, carrot, and
celery are most often used.
The vegetables, except the onions,
do not have to be peeled. The
basic ratio of ingredients is
two parts onion, one part carrot,
and one part celery, by weight.
The vegetables should be cut
into a size that will allow
for good flavoring extraction.
Stocks that will cook longer
may use a larger cut vegetables.
Fish broth should have a the
vegetables cut small since the
cooking time is shorter. Because
these vegetables are only
used to add flavor and aroma
they are usually discarded
when the stock is finished.
Other vegetables ingredients
may be added such as leeks,
which can be used in place of
all or part of the onion. Other
root vegetables, such as parsnips,
rutabagas and turnips may be used in addition to,
or in place of carrots. Making
stock is a great way to clean
out the refrigerator, but don't
limit your stock making ingredients
to fresh or whole vegetables.
Start saving peels, trimmings
and other leftover vegetables
as you cook, all those unattractive
peelings and parings will impart
a lovely flavor to your next
stock.
The vegetables, except the onions,
do not have to be peeled. Wash
the vegetable pieces and allow
to drain and then place them
in freezer bags until you get
enough to make up a big pot of
stock.
You can use all kinds of
vegetables for stock making.
The flavor will depend on the
mix you use. Strong vegetables
like cabbages, asparagus, broccoli,
greens, turnips, tomatoes and
cauliflower can overpower the
flavor of stock. Unless you
want a stronger flavor keep
those vegetables stored separately
and add them sparingly.
Some excellent vegetables, and
their trimmings or peelings,
are onions, garlic, sweet potatoes,
squash, carrots, celery, mushrooms,
peas, corn and corn cobs, turnips, leeks, cilantro and parsley stems,
green beans, beets, bell peppers,
scallions, green onions, shallots,
parsnips, rutabagas, etc., etc.
You can also add small amounts
of fruit or fruit scraps to
your vegetable stock ingredient
mix. Apples, pears, plums and pineapple
work well.
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If you buy chicken or turkey parts to make stock, get the most
inexpensive parts, such as backs, wings and necks. If buying whole chickens, cut
them up and
save those parts.
Save the skin and bones that are leftover when you de-bone chicken.
The bones can be cut with a
heavy knife or cleaver. Save
the chicken or turkey carcass.
If space is at a premium, wrap
the carcass in a clean kitchen
towel and place it on a solid
surface. Use a hammer, a mallet
or a heavy skillet to flattened
the bones into a more manageable
shape. Divide up the remains
and place in freezer bags until
ready to use.
If you want a darker, richer stock, place
a layer of onions and carrots
on a greased baking pan and
arrange the poultry bones
on top. Bake in a 450°F oven for about 30 minutes, or until the bones are
browned (the veggie may char,
but don't discard them, that
will add even richer flavor)
before adding them to
your stock pot. Scrape up all the residue left on the pan and add it to the
stock.
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The most luxurious stocks
are made from bones and meat.
For beef, pork, game or lamb,
the meat is browned in
a hot oven to form compounds
that give flavor and color--the
result of a fusion of amino
acids with sugars, called the
Maillard
reaction. Bacon and ham
or other smoked meats and bones
may be used as a stock to flavor
many bean recipes. Since you
will want most meat stocks to
be dark and rich, I recommend
browning the meat in a hot pan
and oven roasting the bones
first.
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Brown
stocks achieve their
deep rich color
and aroma when bones
and meat are browned
during preliminary
roasting process.
Bones contribute
flavor and gelatin,
which will give
the finished stock
consistency. The bones may be used fresh
or frozen. If you have bones
from a roast, ribs
of steaks, go ahead
and use those, and
isn't it nice to
get something for
nothing? You don't
have to re-roast
them unless they
are quite pale.
Thick bones should be cut
into 3-inch lengths for quicker
and more thorough extraction
of flavor, gelatin, arrow and
nutritive value. This will add
to the surface area
of each bone and
thus give more color
and flavor to the
finished stock.
Stock is the richness
derived from the
gelatin (essentially
concentrated protein)
released by the
bones and cartilage,
and to a lesser
extent by tendons,
skin, and other
tissue.
What Kind of
Bones?
In addition to
leftover bones,
beef and veal soup bones
may be purchased pre-cut, look
for oxtails,
neck bones
and shanks
as good choices
for stock making.
Marrow bones, large
round bones with
tissue in the center,
are commonly use
for stock. One or
two marrow bones,
sawed in half-inch
pieces will provide
a hearty beef flavor. Bone
marrow is a source
of protein and high
in monounsaturated
fats. These fats
are known to decrease
LDL cholesterol
levels, a good reason
to include them
in you stock. Calves'
feet is another
and good type of
bone as it contains
a great deal of
natural gelatin.
Veal bones produce
a more gelatinous
stock than beef. Brown stock
can also be made
very successfully
from a combination of
different bones
such as any type
of game bird or
animal, chicken,
beef, pork, or duck.
Roasting
Place a layer of onions
and carrots on a greased heavy
roasting pan and rub
the bones with olive
oil and place them
on top 1 layer thick.
The oil will get
hotter than the
air of the oven,
and will cause the
bones to brown better.
Bake in a 450°F oven for about forty minutes, or until the bones are
browned. The veggies may char,
but don't discard them, by charring
the food, starches
and proteins "caramelized"
or turned into sugars.
The resulting flavors
were not only sweeter,
but more complex
and interesting.
The browner color
is also generally
considered more
appetizing. that
will add even richer flavor. The
bones should be
nicely browned but
not burned. To assure
even browning, stir
and turn the bones
often. Too little
browning and the
stock will not be
colored or flavored
sufficiently, but
burned bones will
cause the stock
to taste bitter.
After the bones
are properly roasted
drop them into the
pressure cooker
along with the roasted
vegetables and any
grease in the pan.
Deglazing
Place the roasting
pan on the stove,
use 2 burners if
necessary, and add
2 cups of cold water
or a combination
or water and wine.
Over medium-high
heat boil briefly,
scraping the bottom
of the roasting
pan with flat edged
spatula as
the water boils.
This will loosen
any bits of browned
juices that are stuck
to the pan. These
little browned bits
are packed with
flavor as well as
color. Once the
bottom of the pan
is "cleaned"
of these little
browned bits, taste
the water. If it
is slightly bitter,
do not use it as
it will turn the
finished stock very
bitter. If it is
not bitter, simply
add it to the bones.
The deglazing step
also makes clean-up
easier.
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Seafood stock use
any inexpensive white fish. You can also save up fish scraps like the discarded
heads, tails, bones and trimmings.
Shellfish, such
as crab, shrimp and lobster,
including their
shells, are used
seafood stocks. Large
fish
bones or shells can be cut with a heavy
knife or cleaver. If you are
saving fish scraps freeze them
separate from other ingredients.
Fish stock is used
for any kind of
fish or seafood
dish, such as
soups, stews, chowder,
ciopino, jambalaya
and many Creole
and Cajun recipes.
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Water is the most frequently used liquid for making
stock. Wine or beer
may also be used for part of the liquid. The liquid should be cold when combined with the bones and
vegetables. The ratio of liquid to flavoring ingredient is important and should
be followed for the best results. You may want to add 2 tablespoons tomato paste,
Worcestershire sauce
or soy sauce, if
those ingredients
appeal to you.
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Stocks should include herbs
and spices to enhance flavors.
The collection of herbs and
seasonings are, tied into a
small bundle with cheesecloth
and tied with a small piece
of string. This is then placed
in the stock while cooking and
removed and disregarded after
stock is done cooking. Salt
is not added to
stock, wait until
you add it to a
recipe before adjusting
the salt to taste.
For more about which
spice to use see
the Spice and
Herb Usage Chart.
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Sufficient to
season approximately
1 gallon of stock
- 3-4 Parsley
stems
- ½ teaspoon
Thyme leaves,
dried
- 1 Bay leaf
- ½ teaspoon
Peppercorns,
whole
- 3 or 4 Garlic
cloves, crushed
- Sage, rosemary,
or fresh herbs
may also be
used to create
different flavors
Tie the bundle
securely in cheesecloth
and tie with twine.
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Sufficient to
season approximately
1 gallon of stock
- 1 Celery
stalk, halved
crosswise.
- 3 or 4 Parsley
stems
- 1 Thyme
sprig, fresh
- 1 Bay leaf
- 2 or 3 Leek
leaves 1
- Sandwich
herbs between
celery pieces
and fold leek
leaves around
the herbs and
celery.
Tie the bundle
securely in cheesecloth
and tie with twine.
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